LO4: Mode of address and regulations

 Mode of Address and Structure Analysis

Mode of Address: 

The mode of address in this article is primarily "teacher to student," a formal and informative tone. It is written with the  aims to educate readers on the historical and cultural significance of queer fashion within the LGBTQ+ community, while also looking at the issues of appropriation by mainstream culture.

Examples:

Educative Tone: The article provides historical context and detailed explanations, such as "Historically, specific fashion choices served as subtle signals of identity."

Formal Language: The use of terms like "appropriation," "commercial exploitation," and "visibility and acceptance" indicates a formal tone for educating an audience that may not be fully aware of the nuances of queer fashion.

Code: The article has elaborated code, characterized by complex sentences, precise vocabulary, and an assumption that the audience might not share the same background knowledge.

Examples:

Complex Sentences and Precise Vocabulary: "While the inclusion of queer fashion in the mainstream can be seen as a form of acceptance, it also raises issues of appropriation."

Explanations and Context: "These codes provided visibility and connection in an often hostile environment," which clarifies the historical context for readers who might not be familiar with it.

Link to Purpose and Audience:

Purpose: The purpose of the article is to inform and educate readers about the historical and cultural significance of queer fashion and to raise awareness about the issues of appropriation and commercialization by mainstream fashion.

Audience: The intended audience is likely a general readership interested in fashion, LGBTQ+ issues, or cultural studies. This could include students, educators, fashion enthusiasts, and advocates for LGBTQ+ rights.

Examples:

Informing with Interviews: Adding in interviews with individuals like Alex, Amilia, and Ben adds depth and personal insights, enhancing the educational aspect. For instance, Alex's frustration highlights the real-world impact of appropriation: "It's frustrating to see designs we've pioneered being marketed without any acknowledgement of their origins."

Historical Insight: Amilia's discussion about the 1980s provides a historical perspective: "During the 1980s, something as simple as a single earring or a flannel shirt could signal one's identity safely yet subtly."

The use of an elaborated code and a formal mode of address aligns with the purpose of educating and informing a diverse audience, ensuring that the article is accessible to readers with different levels of prior knowledge about queer fashion and its significance. By maintaining this structure, the article effectively communicates its message, emphasizing the importance of recognizing and respecting the contributions of the LGBTQ+ community to the fashion world.

Analysis of Compliance with IPSO Code of Practice

1. Accuracy (Clause 1)

Code Requirement: The press must take care not to publish inaccurate, misleading, or distorted information, including headlines not supported by the text.

Analysis: The article has well researched overview of the journey of queer fashion from subculture to mainstream. It includes historical references, mentions specific designers, and incorporates interviews with experts and influencers in the field.

Examples:

• Historical Accuracy: The article accurately references historical fashion signals such as a single earring or flannel shirts used by queer individuals in the 1980s. It provides context about their significance during the AIDS epidemic, supported by the interview with Amilia, a historian specializing in LGBTQ+ fashion.
• Expert Opinions: The insights from Alex, a queer fashion designer, and Ben, a queer fashion influencer, are presented accurately and are relevant to the discussion on appropriation and visibility in mainstream culture.

2. Privacy (Clause 2)

Code Requirement: Everyone is entitled to respect for their private and family life, home, health, and correspondence, including digital communications.

Analysis: The article respects the privacy of people mentioned. All interviewees are identified by their first names and professional titles, which they likely provided consent for, considering the context of the interviews.

Examples:

• The article does not disclose any private or sensitive information about the interviewees beyond their professional insights and experiences.
• The narrative focuses on public aspects of queer fashion and its cultural significance, avoiding intrusion into the personal lives of the individuals.

3. Harassment (Clause 3)

Code Requirement: Journalists must not engage in intimidation, harassment, or persistent pursuit. They must not persist in questioning, telephoning, pursuing, or photographing individuals once asked to desist.

Analysis: There is no harassment or persistent pursuit in the article. The interviews and quotes suggest voluntary participation and willingness to share insights.

Examples:

• The article includes respectful and voluntary interviews with Alex, Amilia, and Ben, indicating no harassment or coercion in obtaining information.

4. Discrimination (Clause 12)

Code Requirement: The press must avoid prejudicial or pejorative reference to an individual’s race, colour, religion, gender, sexual orientation, or any physical or mental illness or disability.

Analysis: The article discusses queer fashion within the LGBTQ+ community with sensitivity and respect. It avoids any pejorative or prejudicial language and focuses on celebrating the contributions and significance of queer fashion.

Examples:

• Respectful Language: The article uses respectful and inclusive language when discussing the LGBTQ+ community and queer fashion.
• Highlighting Contributions: It emphasizes the importance of recognizing and respecting the origins of queer fashion, advocating for acknowledgment of the community’s contributions.

5. Intrusion into Grief or Shock (Clause 4)

Code Requirement: In cases involving personal grief or shock, inquiries and approaches must be made with sensitivity and discretion.

Analysis: While the article touches on sensitive historical topics such as the AIDS epidemic, it does so with appropriate sensitivity and context, highlighting the resilience and solidarity within the LGBTQ+ community.

Examples:

• Sensitive Topics: The discussion about the AIDS epidemic is handled with care, focusing on the role of fashion as a means of solidarity and resistance.

L04: Sub editing

Before:

 Queer Fashion: From Subculture to Mainstream

By Joseph Cunningham

Queer fashion, a symbol of identity and resistance within the LGBTQ+ community, has increasingly found its way into mainstream culture. However, this journey from subculture to mainstream often involves significant appropriation by straight individuals and mainstream fashion houses, raising questions about recognising and preserving its original significance.

Fashion has always been a powerful tool for self-expression within the LGBTQ+ community. Historically, specific fashion choices served as subtle signals of identity. For instance, a single earring in the right ear or the adoption of certain clothing styles were used by queer individuals to identify each other in a world where open expression of their sexuality was dangerous. These codes provided visibility and connection in an often hostile environment. 

Over the years, as societal acceptance of LGBTQ+ individuals has grown, so has the visibility of queer fashion. Influential queer designers like Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, and Gianni Versace have played pivotal roles in shaping modern fashion trends. Their innovative designs, often bold and boundary-pushing, have been embraced by a wide audience, including straight consumers. This has led to the mainstream adoption of many styles that originated in queer culture.

While the inclusion of queer fashion in the mainstream can be seen as a form of acceptance, it also raises issues of appropriation. For example, items like Doc Martens and flannel shirts, once significant within queer communities, have been widely adopted by mainstream culture without acknowledgement of their origins. This can dilute their cultural significance and make it harder for queer individuals to support a distinct identity through fashion.

The commercial exploitation of queer fashion is another critical issue. Major retailers often capitalize on the visibility of queer culture by selling rainbow-themed merchandise, especially during Pride Month. However, this "rainbow capitalism" often lacks genuine support for the LGBTQ+ community and is seen as a superficial rather than meaningful representation. This trend underscores the tension between genuine inclusion and exploitation for profit.

The mainstreaming of queer fashion by straight individuals can also create challenges within the LGBTQ+ community. When queer-coded styles become popular in the broader culture, it can blur the lines of identity and make it more difficult for queer individuals to identify each other. This is particularly significant for young queer people who rely on these visual cues to find and connect with their community.

While the mainstreaming of queer fashion by straight people [EBE1] has increased visibility and acceptance, it often comes at the cost of the original context and meaning behind these styles. It is crucial to recognize and respect the contributions of the LGBTQ+ community to the fashion world, ensuring that their influence is acknowledged and celebrated. By doing so, we can honour the rich history and significance of queer fashion while fostering a more inclusive and respectful cultural landscape.

 

To deepen the understanding of this topic, I conducted interviews with several individuals who have experienced the evolution of queer fashion firsthand.

Interview with Alex, a Queer Fashion Designer [EBE2]

Alex, a prominent queer fashion designer based in Sheffield shared insights on how mainstream fashion often overlooks the roots of queer styles. "It's frustrating to see designs we've pioneered being marketed without any acknowledgement of their origins. Our fashion is not just about aesthetics; it's about identity and resistance." [EBE3]

Interview with Amilia, a Fashion Historian [EBE4]

Amilia, a historian specializing in LGBTQ+ fashion, discussed the historical significance of certain fashion choices. "During the 1980s, something as simple as a single earring or a flannel shirt could signal one's identity safely yet subtly. These signals were crucial for survival and community building." [EBE5]

Interview with Ben, a Queer Influencer [EBE6]

Ben, a queer fashion influencer, highlighted the impact of social media on the visibility of queer fashion. "Social media platforms have given us a space to showcase our styles and connect with others globally. However, it also means that our uniqueee styles can be quickly appropriated by mainstream culture, often without credit."

Through these interviews and even this article, while the mainstreaming of queer fashion can be seen as a form of acceptance, it is essential to remain mindful of its origins and significance within the LGBTQ+ community. Recognizing and celebrating these contributions can help ensure that the rich history and meaning behind queer fashion are preserved and respected.

 

Sub-editing comments

[EBE1] Change to heterosexual

[EBE2] Remove this as you state who the person being interview is in the paragraph underneath. 

[EBE3] Before the next interview add in the sentence ‘For the purpose of my research, I also interviewed…’ 

[EBE4] Remove this as you state who the person being interview is in the paragraph underneath.

[EBE5] To add more context to your article, after the statement from Amilia discuss the aids epidemic in the 1980’s and how the designers you mentioned earlier responded to this. 

[EBE6] Remove this as you state who the person being interview is in the paragraph underneath.

After:

Queer Fashion: From Subculture to Mainstream

By Joseph Cunningham

Queer fashion, a symbol of identity and resistance within the LGBTQ+ community, has increasingly found its way into mainstream culture. However, this journey from subculture to mainstream often involves significant appropriation by straight individuals and mainstream fashion houses, raising questions about recognising and preserving its original significance.

Fashion has always been a powerful tool for self-expression within the LGBTQ+ community. Historically, specific fashion choices served as subtle signals of identity. For instance, a single earring in the right ear or the adoption of certain clothing styles were used by queer individuals to identify each other in a world where open expression of their sexuality was dangerous. These codes provided visibility and connection in an often hostile environment. 

Over the years, as societal acceptance of LGBTQ+ individuals has grown, so has the visibility of queer fashion. Influential queer designers like Marc Jacobs, John Galliano, and Gianni Versace have played pivotal roles in shaping modern fashion trends. Their innovative designs, often bold and boundary-pushing, have been embraced by a wide audience, including straight consumers. This has led to the mainstream adoption of many styles that originated in queer culture.

While the inclusion of queer fashion in the mainstream can be seen as a form of acceptance, it also raises issues of appropriation. For example, items like Doc Martens and flannel shirts, once significant within queer communities, have been widely adopted by mainstream culture without acknowledgement of their origins. This can dilute their cultural significance and make it harder for queer individuals to support a distinct identity through fashion.

The commercial exploitation of queer fashion is another critical issue. Major retailers often capitalize on the visibility of queer culture by selling rainbow-themed merchandise, especially during Pride Month. However, this "rainbow capitalism" often lacks genuine support for the LGBTQ+ community and is seen as a superficial rather than meaningful representation. This trend underscores the tension between genuine inclusion and exploitation for profit.

The mainstreaming of queer fashion by straight individuals can also create challenges within the LGBTQ+ community. When queer-coded styles become popular in the broader culture, it can blur the lines of identity and make it more difficult for queer individuals to identify each other. This is particularly significant for young queer people who rely on these visual cues to find and connect with their community.

While the mainstreaming of queer fashion by heterosexual people has increased visibility and acceptance, it often comes at the cost of the original context and meaning behind these styles. It is crucial to recognize and respect the contributions of the LGBTQ+ community to the fashion world, ensuring that their influence is acknowledged and celebrated. By doing so, we can honour the rich history and significance of queer fashion while fostering a more inclusive and respectful cultural landscape.

 

To deepen the understanding of this topic, I conducted interviews with several individuals who have experienced the evolution of queer fashion firsthand.

Alex, a prominent queer fashion designer based in Sheffield shared insights on how mainstream fashion often overlooks the roots of queer styles. "It's frustrating to see designs we've pioneered being marketed without any acknowledgement of their origins. Our fashion is not just about aesthetics; it's about identity and resistance." 

For the purpose of my research, I also interviewed Amilia, a historian specializing in LGBTQ+ fashion, discussed the historical significance of certain fashion choices. "During the 1980s, something as simple as a single earring or a flannel shirt could signal one's identity safely yet subtly. These signals were crucial for survival and community building." The aids epidemic further intensified the need for such discreet yet recognizable symbols within the community, as they navigated a time of heightened fear and stigmatization. Fashion became a means not only of self-expression but also of solidarity and resistance against widespread discrimination and loss.

Ben, a queer fashion influencer, highlighted the impact of social media on the visibility of queer fashion. "Social media platforms have given us a space to showcase our styles and connect with others globally. However, it also means that our uniqueee styles can be quickly appropriated by mainstream culture, often without credit."

Through these interviews and even this article, while the mainstreaming of queer fashion can be seen as a form of acceptance, it is essential to remain mindful of its origins and significance within the LGBTQ+ community. Recognizing and celebrating these contributions can help ensure that the rich history and meaning behind queer fashion are preserved and respected.

L03: Research and plan an article

Mind map of initial ideas:

Galtang and ruge(1965):

Galtang and Ruge believed that different aspects of 

an event increased the likelihood of it being selected 

as news story by journalists. They considered the 

following: ​

​

Negative Elements: A story that was ‘negative’ is 

more likely to be seen as more important that ‘

positive’ ones. ​

​

Proximity: If the story is ‘close to home’ it will be 

seen as more valuable in that area. ​

​

Recency: has it happened recently? Is it breaking 

news? ​

​

Currency: is it familiar to readers? Have they heard 

this story before?​

​

Continuity: if it is continuing to happen, it is more 

likely that it will be reported from different angles.

Primary Research:

 ​ ​

Interview questions:

Questionnaire:

Focus group prompts:

In person interview notes: 

Alex:

Questions:

Do see your designs being over look or similar designs getting more praise?

yes' other straight woman and mens designs get taken more seriously at the start of there careers. 

Do you see similar designs being released after your receiving more attention?

Yeah often designers release designs that dont do well for months but they get pick up by fast fashion brands and they blow up over night with little appreciation going the the original designer. 

Is there a lack of appreciation for the queer influence? 

Yes definitely, many people wear a design with looking or thing about where it originated and give credits to influence on social media. 

Amelia:

Questions:

What have we seen recently become mainstream that was established in the queer community?

Resently I have seen many straight men adopt flannel shirt and singular earrings that originated in the 1980's

How does fashion impact the queer community?

Fashion allows queer people to connect and easily find other to feel safe around. 

Does queer fashion becoming mainstream have an negative impact on the community?

It negatively impacts on the community because it means that there is a lack of security with seeing what once was a queer sign but now could lead to uncombable situations. 

Ben:

Questions:

Do you think that your platform has an impact on the way the 

community is seen?

Yeah I do, I think I am often an introduction to the queer for 

straight people passed the "gay bestfriend"

Do you feel a pressure with your status as an influences? 

I feel  pressure to represent the community positively as the can be a stigma around drugs and irresponsible choices. 

Has your platform allowed you to connect with other creators? 

My new platform has allowed me to connected with people I 

thought id never meet and collaborate and spreed potive 

messages.  

Referencing of sources: 

Femestella.com(2024) Influences of the LGBTQ Community on Modern Fashion at: https://www.femestella.com/influences-of-the-lgbtq-community-on-modern-fashion/ (accessed 20 may 2024) 

 

elonedge.com (2024) A look inside queer fashion at:https://www.elonedge.com/blog/2023/5/9/a-look-inside-queer-fashion (accessed 20 may 2024) 

The look us.com (2024) Queer fashion's shift into the mainstream at: https://www.thelooksdsu.com/blog/queer-fashions-shift-into-the-mainstream(accessed 20 may 2024) 

Storie, Ben (2024), Interview through email (accessed 22nd May 2024)

Fox, Ameilia (2024), Interview though email (accessed 22nd May 2024)

Justification of resources

Femestella: 

I chose to use this as they focus on fashion this mean as they are realible sources as this is the area of journalism they focus on. The writer of the articles have to have experience in journalism, if it was an independent website with someone who doesn't have experience I wouldn't use it for my research as there could be risk that they are unreliable. 

Elonedge:

The edge focus on current issues that are often over looked by other magazines. This was valiant to my research and the website was free and quick to access. As mentioned recently because they are a blogger website people have different opinions on the website and aren't restricted on what they want to write about especially with stories about the queer community being a taboo subject in the past. 

The look us: Is a fashion website, that is easy to assess and allowed to acutely gather information quickly. Another reason I wanted to use this website is because it is free to use and is cost effective meaning it didn't cost me anything for my research. 

Ben Storie:

A relevened personality in the media at the moment that has a unique point of view that not everyone gets. I choose him as a source for my research because he has experience in the queer community, meaning that I could gain an authentic opinion from someone who has experience in the community and he can relate to the target audience that my article will be aimed. He is also a young adult which is the same as my target audience. 

Amelia Fox: 

Amelia is able to proved me with acute information that I can rely on for my article. She also does history at University meaning that she is good at collecting research.  

Questionnaire: 

A questionnaire allowed me to quickly and cheaply gather lots of informations on there opinions. Another reason I used a questionnaire is because I could gain responses quickly by sending it on email. Another thing I could have done was post it on social media as my target audience use social media.